Nowhere is water so beautiful as in the desert for nowhere else is it so scare: Edward Abbey
The desert state of Rajasthan in India is a legendary land of valour and chivalry, of beauty and romance, of vibrant colours and affluent culture. It is the land where you never feel far away from the history. Though exemplarily beautiful in each and every aspect, the state is plagued by the problem of severe droughts since thousands of years. Narrating the acute famine of 11th century the celebrated historian Col. James Todd mentioned about no rainfall in the state for the 12 preceding years of famines. Hence, the water conservation has forever been an integral part of the arid land’s culture.
Traditional water harvesting structures with magnificent architecture, are found all around the state. Stepwells or baoris, are one such structure indigenous to India. For centuries they have remained an integral part of the western Indian communities as sites for drinking, washing, and bathing, as well as for community gathering for colorful festivals and sacred rituals. They have also served as cool sanctuaries for caravans, pilgrims, and common travelers, during the heat of the day or for an overnight stay. These magnificent structures were much more than utilitarian water reservoirs. It is said that no two step-wells are identical and each one displays its own unique character.
The Chand Baori in Abhaneri village of Dausa District, Rajasthan is one of the deepest and oldest step wells in the world. The architectural marvel leaves its onlookers completely spellbound.
Architecture
The iconic stepwell surrounded by the old fold Aravalli hills, was built by king Chanda (Chandra) of Nikumba dynasty who ruled Abhaneri during the 8th-9th century A.D. It is located opposite to the temple of Harshat Mata, the goddess of joy and happiness, to whom the complex was eventually dedicated on completion. This 19.5m deep thirteen storied step-well is square on plan with entrance from north. It is 64 feet deep and provided with double flight of 3500 tapered steps on the three sides. The fourth side boasts of a pavilion of three storeys with beautifully carved jharokhas, galleries supported on pillars and two projecting balconies enshrining grand stunning sculptures of Mahishasurmardini and Ganesha.
(Picture Credit: Dr. A.R. Niazi, Freelancer)
The four sided structure surrounds the deep green pool of water in the centre. Interestingly, the temperature reduces one move down. The lower levels of the well are around 5 degrees cooler than the ones above. The sequential play of light and shadow on the stairs gives it a captivating look of a mystical puzzle.
Cultural Signification
Although Chand Baori was intended to conserve as much water as possible, it was used as a community gathering place for locals during intense summer days. The presence of royal residence with rooms for the King and the Queen and a stage for the performing arts depicts featured dances, drama and other forms of performing art in its glory days. The temple in the complex still remains active and sees a steady stream of devotees.
(Picture Credit: Dr. A.R. Niazi, Freelancer)
Folklore
Over the years, the Baori has garnered the reputation of a haunted spot. The hundreds of shrieking bats inside the well’s shaft only add to the atmosphere. Legend has it that this monumental structure was built over the span of a single night. The locals put it down to be the handiwork of a supernatural power. Some even believe that the structure was brought to ruin by curse of a monk, while the other conclude that it was either razed by the 10th century ruler Mahmud Ghazni or neglected due to fund shortage by the succeeding dynasties. However, the mystery remains unsolved.
Management
Maintenance efforts have been taken up by the government and the stunning historical monument is presently under the protection of the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). Having attained a wide popularity, it has garnered the attention of conservation organisations world-wide.
How to Reach
Owing to its grand marvellous architecture and enchanting aura, the Baori has become not only a world-wide tourist attraction but also a popular muse for horror enthusiasts, paranormal researchers and cinema directors. The baori being 240 km from the Country’s capital New Delhi, and 98 km from Rajasthan State capital Jaipur, is easily accessible by train, bus, private car and paid cabs. The nearest airports are Indira Gandhi International Airport, Delhi and Jaipur International Airport, Jaipur. The famous haunted Bhangarh Fort is also en route the stepwell, just a few kilometres away.
(Picture Credit: Dr. A.R. Niazi, Freelancer)
The rising climate crisis and acute water scarcity around the world has made restoration, revival and re-strengthening of primitive water wisdom extremely significant. Although no longer in use, the subterranean edifice Chand Baori is a priceless architectural display that provides the testimony to the ingenuity and grit of the desert people. It’s an assertion of the faith that deep down they will unearth a miraculous source of water to quench their thirst. The monument is worth visiting and conserving in its original form and spirit.
