With hilsa traditionally abundant off the coast of the state, Bengalis’ love for hilsa is perhaps not surprising. Of the 20,000 tonnes of hilsa caught in India in 2018, 13,827 tonnes or nearly 70% was caught in West Bengal, according to data from the Central Marine Fisheries Research Institute (CMFRI). In West Bengal, hilsa constitutes about 9% of all fish caught in the state.
With Durga Pujo around the corner, hilsa is at the centre of Bengal’s food scene – mostly marketed by hotels and restaurants. Food and marine experts, however, are not thrilled. This is the time when the population of hilsa is at its most vulnerable and should be left alone, experts say. “Bengali cuisine is very seasonal. From Nolen Gur (a type of jaggery that used to be available only in winters) to hilsa fish, the food changed with the season. Hilsa is traditionally not eaten during Ashshin – a Bengali month roughly from the end of September to the first week of October,” says Saptarshi Chakraborty, cofounder of Bong Eats, a YouTube channel that documents Kolkata food. “However, hilsa is now being marketed throughout the year and its demand goes even higher during Bengal’s biggest festival,” he adds.
Hilsa fish, like salmon, are anadromous–meaning they live in the sea but move to rivers to breed. Studies suggest that the migration of hilsa fish from the sea to the rivers depends largely on the onset of the southwest monsoon, and the consequent flooding of rivers in Bangladesh, Myanmar and India.
This year, the main breeding season of the hilsa is currently underway. “Now is the time for the juveniles to go to the sea. Fishermen should not fish for hilsa in the river now since it will be only juveniles, they can catch the adults in the sea,” says marine researcher Divya Karnad, who runs – InSeason Fish, a sustainable seafood initiative.
A recent study found out that first spawners (or adults who spawn for the first time) have a 75% probability of being targeted by the fishing industry. “The situation in Kolkata has gotten worse, with trawlers standing right at the river mouth, waiting to catch juveniles on their way to the ocean,” Karnad adds.
Based on the available data, computing models and the life cycles of hilsa, experts have concluded that 25,440 tons per year is the maximum sustainable yield. Beyond this, the fish will not have time to breed, grow and rejuvenate the population. While more than 13,000 tonnes caught in 2018, hilsa catch was as high as 57,991 tonnes in 2017 in West Bengal alone. With state government struggling to enforcement regulations, hilsa faces a bleak future. It is estimated that there are between 3,571 and 3,987 boats, a study found out. “It can be inferred that hilsa fishery in the BoB (Bay of Bengal) is being unsustainably exploited,” says a study titled “Present Status of the Sustainable Fishing Limits for Hilsa Shad in the northern Bay of Bengal, India”.
The authors of the report write: “It is a matter of serious concern that with 75% probability, the first spawners of the population are being targeted by the present fishing practice.”
Therefore, despite more and more fishermen setting out to sea to catch hilsa, the numbers are decreasing. Between 2002 and 2015, the number of boats that went out to catch hilsa increased by 25%, while the catch reduced by 13% in the same period. With increased demand and reduced supply, the cost of hilsa has also gone up. “Currently, hilsa costs between Rs 1,800 and Rs 2,500 per kg and this price is unlikely to come down. The price per kg depends on the size of the fish. If its 2kgs, the cost per kg will be much higher,” says Chakraborty.
With social, cultural and gastronomic senses of the West Bengal closely linked, the hilsa fish has always been fighting an uphill battle. The Farakka Barrage on Ganga River, which became operational in 1975, prevented hilsa going upstream during the breeding season. Prior to the Barrage, historical records show hilsa saw caught places as far away as Allahabad, even in Agra in Uttar Pradesh. The state government tried to build ‘fish highways, to facilitate the movement of hilsa, only to fail spectacularly. Several marine experts are also researching the impacts of climate change on hilsa populations.
